Per the advice from DMCH I dremeled off the old bracket on the torsion bar. Came off fairly easy with no damage to the bars threads. It looked salvageable. Ordered a new bracket and took Marks advice (read all info in this thread) and tapped it on and off for about an hour. Have most of the head of the bar re-molded to fit in the bracket. I can get it on and off by and with just a little pressure and wiggling. I am assuming it should be tight as it needs to hold the bar in one position and have no movement.

After further investigation of the roof, it appears my roof has seperated from the fiberglass body. Brian P sent me over a writeup available here on how to fix this. I proceeded to do this fix, my roof was probably up about 3/8" or a bit more. Pounding it down brought it down to about 1/8", and bolting it down sucked it in the rest.

A few changes I would make to BrianP's instructions...

Go with a 3" bolt rather than a 4", you wind up with a lot of extra bolt regardless. 2" may be a bit too short. Rather than a cairrage bolt I went with a machine screw, rounded head (like a cairrage bolt) but a flat head screwdriver slot so it is easier to hold down and tighten.

I am not sure how much (if any) water gets in that area, but I did put RTV sealant under the washer and screw, and wiped off the excess that squirted out when it sucked the roof down. Hopefully that will keep anything from leaking. I'll probably paint (like Brian) to prevent corrosion and then cover with duct tape just to make sure it doesn't have a chance to scrape anything.

Here are some pictures:

The above picture is after it was hammered down. This brought the roof down quite a bit.

These pictures are from misc angles after I drilled the holes and placed the bolts in (prior to tightening).

And finally after it was tightened. Really sucked it right down back to where it should be. This should fix any noises that would occur when the doors open. No more squeaky roof, rubbing t-panel, or torsion bar rubbing the door hinge.