Category: Electrical
Posted by: Derek
After arriving home from DMC Florida and turning off the car, the frequency valve 'stuck' in the on position. Diagnosed the problem as my RPM relay sticking (completing the circuit). As this is my second RPM relay problem in the past two years (my other was the car dying out on the highway) I decided to go with the solid state RPM relay offered by Dave (Bitsyncmaster) on DMCTalk.com.

Take a look at this picture comparing the two, and read Ozzies great review on the relay upgrade here.

Category: Electrical
Posted by: Derek
Wanted to do an overhaul on the door lock system just to get rid of my old door lock module. While I have not had any problems with it, I decided to pick up Toby's new door lock module and actuator system. Let me just say that it is extremely easy to install this (once you get inside the doors), and everything is extremely well built with easy to follow directions. The new system works very nice, the one difference is that it staggers the door locks, unlocking or locking the drivers side first followed 1/2 a second later by the passenger side. This is designed to take even more of a load off the electrical system. It connected very easily to the alarm that I also purchased from him. Unfortunately I did not have my camera on hand for the actuator install, but here is a shot of the door lock module mounted:



The trunk actuator was also very simple to install, albeit a bit more time consuming for me when running the wires to the rear of the car and connecting to the existing alarm (pretty much because I am anal). Simply mount it up, make a few slight changes to the existing latch, and then give the actuator a power connection and ground. Works very nice and is especially useful to keep wear off the original cable (and good as a backup).



Nov 25, 2006: Horn switch replaced

Category: Electrical
Posted by: Derek
Continuing on with the electrical work over the past few weeks, I am now finally getting around to fixing the sketchy horn. Ever since I have purchased this car, the horn worked 40% of the time at best. After several tests, my assumption was that the wiring was melted in the horn stalk, or had some other sort of catastropic event take place, as you would have power on one end but not on the other. Come to find out if you install higher powered horns these wires do melt, and I am 99% sure my horns are not original.

Purchased a new stalk unit from DMC Florida and went about installing it today. Not terribly hard, used the directions from the DML, which weren't 100% correct. They recommend using 1/4" bolts 4" long and washers to fit on the other side as support. However, the holes on my wheel do not go through to the other side, so instead as the threads were close I forced the bolts in about 1/4" and just used the puller to pop the wheel off. Very easy, 5 minutes tops if I had to do it again.

Removing and installing the new unit was a breeze, here are some pics of the process. Unfortunately, its not a lot to look at, the first picture is the old unit, the second pic is the new unit, and the last is the wheel back together.






Category: Electrical
Posted by: Derek
Special thanks to Shannon from the Ohio DeLorean Club for the part #'s.

For this install you are going to need 2 rolls of 16 gauge wire, some quick disconnects, and the brake lights of your choice. I went with "Red Lens, Mini Red 12-LED Brake Light ZX830680R Each $10.99" from www.jcwhitney.com. I decided to go this route rather than the LED bars on the louvers as I like the lines of the car, wanted something more hidden, and didn't want to drill into my louvers to mount a light. For me, this is as much about looks as it is safety.

Also thanks to Mike from the DeLorean Club of Florida for running the wires and installing the lights for me. He is a master at wiring and makes everything beautiful and clean. Here are some install pictures at the DeLorean Club of Florida's tech session, along with some finished shots later on the next day.

(Please excuse the dirty car, it needs a bath)









Category: Electrical
Posted by: Derek
After reading an interesting post on the DeLorean Mailing List about a cross reference blower motor, I decided to pick one up.

The part # for this is Siemens PM106, and it is a drop in replacement for our blower motors. AutoZone carries these sparsely, if they have it in stock its $18.99, if they special order it $24.99.

Took the old motor out and saw that there was some rats nest gunk in the exhaust line. Cleaned that out and transferred it and the basket to the new motor. Replaced it and cranked it up, much quieter than the old motor. Would highly recommend this cheap replacement if yours is making loud noises.

Category: Electrical
Posted by: Derek
First, for those who think the binnacle would not look good with LEDs, or look too dim, heres a pic for you. Rather than replace with the WLED-W white bulbs on superbrightleds.com I used the WLED white 6 LED bulb. It is bright, gives the car a more modern white with a tint of blue light, and looks great with the odometer and tripometer.



Now for those who have been asking for the stereo install pics, here they are. Along with them, I also got in pics of the new A/C panel setup. I followed what Delorean03 suggested with using 3 blue LEDs for the backlighting and 1 red LED for the temp selector lighting. 2 reds for the door lock and fan fail, and 1 amber for the defrost (yes I used the defrost several times last year). I took the first pic with a slightly different exposure and a garage light on that definitely shows a more uniform lighting appearance with the LEDs on the A/C panel. The rest were on a high exposure to get the most color I could, taken in complete darkness. The last picture is of the stereo opened.







Dec 30, 2005: New stereo on its way

Category: Electrical
Posted by: Derek
Today I went ahead and ordered one of the stereo's I was eyeing for the DeLorean. I was considering several Sony stereos with the active black face, so it would fit in with the cars looks once installed. I did not want anything like todays usual stereos with lots of flashy colors and buttons to them, as I want it to look natural with the car at a show. Sony seems to be the only company making the active black stereo's any more, and they have had several models in the past year. For the older models, you can get them refurbished for about $180-$220 (as they sell for upwards of $350 new. However, Crutchfield had a sale this week on the CDX-M8815X for $200 new, so I just had to go for it. With a coupon it came to $180 new, with free shipping.

I have decided to not purchase the DMC Houston bracket and instead hack up my own. I decided on this for two reasons. One, I am not going to be going back to stock, and plan on selling my original radio. I am all for keeping the car look 'stock' while still updating the car as indiscretely as possible. Two, the new one is not painted, and I have a feeling any job I do would not come out looking like the original.

See pictures of the unit I plan to install below:



Category: Electrical
Posted by: Derek
The binnacle has been removed! Successfully might I add!

The job was a bit challenging, six small 7mm nuts and washers hold the binnacle in to the dash. I read that it was best to take out the kneepads, but that actually ended up being more pain than it was worth. If you have a thin socket and extension you can get it out without an issue. I ended up stripping one of the bolts in the left kneepad I need to fix, not a big deal though.

I have ordered the LEDs from Superbrightleds.com and decided to go with the below list after reading several sources suggestions:

5 WLED 6-LED White Bulbs - Lights gauges
5 WLED-R 1-LED Wide Red Bulbs - Seat Belt, Door Open, Oil, LAMBDA, Brake
3 WLED-G 1-LED Wide Green Bulbs - Turn Signals, Low Beams
1 WLED-B 1-LED Wide Blue Bulbs - High Beams
1 WLED-A 1-LED Wide Amber Bulb - Low Fuel

You must keep a standard incandescent bulb in the battery light as it causes resistance in the circuit to charge the battery.

I also ordered 2 3610 4-LED bulbs for the license plate as I think I am interested in getting the whitish blue look on the plate. I think that would look nice at night on the back of the car. Below is a picture of my car in storage with the binnacle removed.



Sep 27, 2005: Small fix

Category: Electrical
Posted by: Derek
I replaced the battery bolts that hold the positive and negative wires to the car battery. The bolts that had came with the battery the previous owner purchased were pretty stripped, and the positive wire would pop out if jarred enough. I did not want this to happen when driving, or the DeLorean would just stall on me which would not be good! All fixed after a $3 box of bolts from AutoZone.

Sep 14, 2005: Tachometer (maybe) fixed

Category: Electrical
Posted by: Derek
I was instructed to try cleaning the tachometer ground wire to stop it from freaking out on me, so that is what I did. It involved removing the rear parcel shelf wall, which was very easy after removing the four screws that hold it in, located below the net hooks. The wall pulled forward, and the ground was behind the passenger seat above the relay compartment. The ground wire that was there needed a cleaning, as the metal had that fuzzy white look to it. I took sandpaper and cleaned the contact as well as the nut holding it on the grounding bolt. After everything was replaced I took the car for a drive and had no tachometer problems. Hopefully the issue will not return!